<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?><oembed><version>1.0</version><provider_name>2022 Archive of RENATURED, Marina Zurkow&#039;s Research Blog</provider_name><provider_url>https://o-matic.com/blog-archive-2022</provider_url><author_name>Marina</author_name><author_url>https://o-matic.com/blog-archive-2022/blog/author/admin/</author_url><title>AS FOR THE CLAY…</title><html>As for the clay, now I am teaching myself how to process it. I&#039;m using the best online explanation I could find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goshen.edu/art/DeptPgs/rework.html&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;

So first, yeah, I found some clay. I was simply excited to touch the stuff and &lt;em&gt;recognize &lt;/em&gt;it as clay: silky, powdery, and if you wet it and rubbed it between your fingers, you could tell, if you&#039;d ever handled slip in a cushy predetermined amateur clay studio like the one I work in in Brooklyn. I&#039;m not good at assessing clay yet; apparently you should roll the clay in question between your palms and if it turns into a worm, it&#039;s good whereas if it falls apart or smears into palmy smaze, it&#039;s not going to be very usable.
&lt;div&gt;&lt;dl id=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;dt&gt;&lt;img alt=&quot;&quot; src=&quot;http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2854/9428088945_c33d1c7a7d.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;/dt&gt;&lt;dd&gt;Sauvies Island clay sampling (digging)&lt;/dd&gt;&lt;/dl&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
Back at &lt;a href=&quot;www.pnca.edu&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;PNCA&lt;/a&gt;, I&#039;m using the ceramics studio to see if it&#039;s usable, fireable, what it can do -- if anything.
&lt;div&gt;&lt;dl id=&quot;attachment_3437&quot;&gt;&lt;dt&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://o-matic.com/blog-archive-2022//wp-content/uploads/2013/08/clayprocess1.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img alt=&quot;clayprocess1&quot; src=&quot;https://o-matic.com/blog-archive-2022//wp-content/uploads/2013/08/clayprocess1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;415&quot; height=&quot;310&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/dt&gt;&lt;dd&gt;Drying it out, then slaking it by turning it all to consistent mush&lt;/dd&gt;&lt;/dl&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;dl&gt;&lt;dt&gt;&lt;img alt=&quot;&quot; src=&quot;http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/9461035938_46fc80c052.jpg&quot; width=&quot;450&quot; height=&quot;337&quot; /&gt;&lt;/dt&gt;&lt;dd&gt;Straining the mush to get rid of debris (thanks  to awesome &lt;a href=&quot;http://lizlux6.weebly.com/installation-gallery.html&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;Liz Lux&lt;/a&gt; for help building the strainer frame!)&lt;/dd&gt;&lt;/dl&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
So that&#039;s where I am. More to come as the clay does its thing.

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Update Aug 14

I processed all the clay samples from the four sites.

Willamette #2 I left as slip and Willamette #3 I had to amend with some Kentucky Old Mine #4 Ball (OM-4) clay, apparently from a mine in Kentucky.
I was told* that clay, in order to have any plasticity, must contain a variety of particle sizes or it will dry up and crack, as mine did when I laid it out on the plaster slab.

But as slip, it is surprisingly adherent and is not cracking.

Here are 4 slab-rolled hand-built stoneware cups, coated with slip from Willamette site #2:

&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/22155573@N00/9509141499/in/set-72157634917542638&quot;&gt;&lt;img class=&quot;alignnone&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; src=&quot;http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3809/9509141499_73c726cf8f.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;282&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;

&nbsp;

Here are 2 pinch pot containers made from the Willamette site#3  clay amended with 20% OM-4 Clay. Even with the added clay, it was still quite lifeless so I knew that slab rolling for hand-built cups was not going to end well:

&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/22155573@N00/9509141957/in/set-72157634917542638&quot;&gt;&lt;img class=&quot;alignnone&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; src=&quot;http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2876/9509141957_d0ae05f0ed.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;282&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;

Next step: firing.

One bisque fire (no 2nd firing):

&lt;a href=&quot;http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3705/9573381746_6bc458e683.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img class=&quot;alignnone&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; src=&quot;http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3705/9573381746_6bc458e683.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;282&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;

&lt;a href=&quot;http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3789/9573383160_6ded582378.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img class=&quot;alignnone&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; src=&quot;http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3789/9573383160_6ded582378.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;282&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;

&nbsp;

They are much brighter red than you see here.

+ + + +

* More info on clay elasticity:

&lt;a href=&quot;http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/topic/3087-clay-elasticity-or-not/&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/topic/3087-clay-elasticity-or-not/&lt;/a&gt;
&quot;For a body to be really workable, you need particles of various sizes. Grog, while rated at a specific mesh size, actually has particles of many sizes.&quot;
Some suggestions from this forum include adding ball clay, which is fine, urine, beer, and bentonite.</html><type>rich</type></oembed>